Halong bay
A new country; Hello Hanoi!
After the anticipated dread of entering Vietnam, involving visa delays and painful taxi bartering, we had arrived in a new country… And it was like having a brick thrown straight in the face. Smack bang, welcome to Hanoi!
The most over populated city in the world (so it’s said). The locals here are anything but patient and friendly; a rude awakening for us after having just left Pai- the zen Thai town where everyone is grinning ear to ear.
I can’t describe the intense frustration I had toward Hanoi’s congested and simply screwed up road rage… You’d be lucky to enjoy more than three seconds before the neighbouring car furiously horned they’re way through the traffic. It was just senseless.
The silver lining to this over chaotic and immensely crowded city was the hostel, Downtown Hanoi Backpackers. The vibe was in full swing- packed with young, interesting, and diversely international travellers. Thank god! So after checking in, Molly and I wasted no time to hit the only cider we’d seen in Asia, and try our best to welcome this concrete jungle with open arms.
The rest of our girl group arrived the following day, and after I purchased a cliche lonely planet book, I started to really understand and appreciate the war-torn county that it is. Everything made sense; the hassling and business-minded locals, the buildings and architecture, and the completely unapologetic menus. This country had endured more than any other, and withstood it’s grounds against the Chinese, French, American, and then the civil break out. Vietnam bleeds a fractured and resisted history, and It was only then that I truly began to grasp it all.
We spent our time in Hanoi exploring the Old Quater, adventuring with traditional foods (including the egg yolk coffee but excluding the live snake heart), and appreciating the historic sights and museums. Every impolite local and overbearing horn was a layering faccet to the story of this country.
And the cheap drinks and friendly backpackers made three days in this sleepless city all the better.
Pai
The small, inland, and tribal town of Pai is like no other Thai destination. The dirt streets and luscious hinterlands all contributed to this unique and spiritual escape haven. Pai is 3 hours west of Chiang Mai, and the journey there is not one for the queezy!
The girls and I were up and out of our Chiang Mai hostel and onto the minibus before being informed the most vital information of the journey; the road winds around 762 corners. Seven hundred and sixty two… You can imagine our faces when the news registered in our slumber states.
Four hours and five upset stomachs later, the heinous trek almost seemed worth it. And we soon discovered it was. This place was a vibrant combination of Woodford Folk Festival and Nimbin, with colourful tourists strolling through the streets, and tribal women approaching us from the fields. We checked into our 5 star bungalow lodges (in true 21st fashion) and settled into the town.
We quickly learned the people were extremely kind hearted, like they are in Chiang Mai, with a familiar laid back and free spirited nature we all related back to home. We were glistening in Pai’s foreign yet home-like surrounding. After some advice from friends, we ventured off the beaten track and followed a floral dirt path up a small mountain. The air was different here. Again. I kept thinking how lucky we were to find magic in each town we visited. Almost like we were destined to run into some un-luck at some point. But I quickly shifted thoughts, and took in each new experience as a deserving blessing.
It wasn’t long before we found ‘Circus Hostel’, a huge open grass hostel area layered in hammocks, hull-a-hoops, and hooligans- just like us. The open bar and tree house rooms sat on the top of a misty mountain, overlooking the small village below. We snagged up some local beer and watched the sunset on the hilltops with fellow appreciative travellers. Canadians, Russians, English, and a couple of Aussies. Everyone was just as unconventional and open hearted as the next. We sat around the fire, exchanging stories, music, and banter, and it quickly became clear why Pai was known as such a heartwarming and refreshing point of disembarkation.
The next few days blurred together by mesmerising views, playful scooter rides to local waterfalls, view points and hot springs, and mouth watering local food. We found sanctuary in a particularly vibe-ful bar “spirit bar”, where we celebrated my 21st. Live music serenaded us by a Ben Harper sound-a-like, and we found the the best cocktails we’d had in all of Thailand. The escapades continued, leaving me waking up on my actual birthday a little rusty. But it was nothing calls from home and a buffet breakfast couldn’t fix.
We left Pai four days later with heavy hearts, but awakened eyes. It was the most relaxed I’d felt the entire trip- and the thought of being twenty one wasn’t as daunting anymore.
A few days in lelliphant heaven
The streets of Chiang Mai are painted in elephants; on their clothes, Jewellery, and even crockery. These big spiritual beings are simply embedded within their world. So sure enough it didn’t take us very long to find a local, eco-friendly, and caring elephant group who provided overnight elephant training and riding camps. Chang Siam Mahout Elephant Training Camp; we had no idea of the wanders that awaited us there.
Each of us have an underlying connection with elephants, and I’m still not sure where that comes from. But the prospect of elephant tattoo’s was a group potential. I like to relate my connection with these animals back to a dad-daughter favourite- “The Castle”. The bit where they talk about the elephant souvenir in the pool room, and how it brings good luck “cause the trunk’s up”… Needless to say we were all yearning to meet these big trunked giants.
We arrived in the village home to a number of other elephant camps in a small group of other lelliphant fanatics. Our tour guide ‘J J’ introduced himself and each of the elephants. We learned how to communicate and feed them. They’re skin felt so hard, like half dried cement. But their trunks were slimy as they yanked the bananas out of my hands. Looking into their eyes I could sense a sense of connection, and found comfort in their gaze.
We were given our traditional tribal clothing, paired up, and told which elephant we would be riding. Krong-Thep was the biggest female there. She was gentle, and after I was told I would be riding her I learned she was also lazy… Very lazy. It sure made for an interesting ride! We sat two people on one elephant, and I instantly felt love toward Krong Thep. She stopped to smell each bark along the way, nibbling on the greenery, and choosing her own route as she wandered off path. I could easily relate to her cheeky and curious ways. We wandered through the national park for what felt like hours, walking slowly as I spread my fingers out on her forehead to keep balance.
The road ventured through narrow and steep paths, as we laughed and lost balance along the way. Eventually we ended at waterfall steam, “you can change for swimming, and wash the elephants”, the instructors told us. So we threw on our bikini’s and quickly grabbed a brush and water funnel on the way out. I swam upto Krong and washed her playfully, and she knelt down as if to invite me onto her back.
The rest of he afternoon remains strung together by the overwhelming memory of washing the beautiful creatures, in their vulnerable and playful environment. And to top it all off, we were the only ones who had opted for the overnight stay, which meant we had a private experience for the rest of the two days. So with a group of 7 local elephant instructors, we jumped on the back of their ute and joined them in their afternoon ritual. We harvested corn crop for the elephant’s food with the local families, as the sun set over the fields. In our usual manner we were thrilled to be there, and beamed as we hoisted the heavy bundles on our shoulders. That night we enjoyed an authentic meal and outdoor fire to fight their winter mountain chill. And we slept thinking it just couldn’t get any better.
The next day, we headed back to the elephant camp bright and early, and after thanking us for so eagerly helping them with the corn, the locals wanted us to ride an elephant each. The rest of the day spent riding and swimming with the elephants was nothing short of magical. Especially considering we were the only ones there to enjoy it. We left a part of our hearts in the national park of Chang Siam. And I will never forget the phenomenal experience that it was.
Elephant dream come true
Finding bliss in Chiang Mai
There’s something so endearing about not knowing your next step. Not wearing makeup. Seeing bizarre and unfamiliar routines. Being free. The thought of home comforts me, and I know in the back of my mind everything will be ok. Everything will be ok for me, even when we can’t afford the next thing. But I only have to open my eyes to see how fortunate I am to have that security. People here depend everything upon tourists, and the skill of their crafts. Their families, homes, and businesses are completely reliant upon us- the secure ones. This realisation hit home one afternoon, looking into the eyes of a gentle but needy man selling to us. When we walked away without accepting his offer I saw such a defiant look in his eyes. Like he was ready to give up. But soon enough a new tourist pottered through his goods, and he was on to the next sale. But I then and there felt the weight of his daily struggle.
We landed in Chiang Mai…
Im not sure if it was the wheatgrass shots, the coolest and freshest air we’d felt in weeks, or the lingering smell of organic grounded coffee beans- but we all agreed Chiang Mai was just what we needed. Reenergised, rejuvenated, and reinvented. This place was ideal. I’ve only seen Byron in its wake of over population and constant construction, but I’d like to think Chiang Mai Byron resembles Byron in its original roots. 30 to 40 years ago. Where the streets were small, the people were at peace, and the general objective was to find yourself. Or find something blissful like you do here In Chiang Mai- here in its colourful temple…
Temples- there were hundreds of them! We didn’t have to walk more than 5 minutes to stumble upon at least three. So after hiring bikes on our first day, we saw more than I thought existed in all of Thailand, let alone one city. Chiang Mai (meaning new city) is bathed in history, with a past rich in royal reminders. After an educational day spent on wheels, went in search for a chilled vibe..
It had been so long since we really got in the ‘travelling spirit’, as opposed to the ‘holiday mode’. The defining distinction was our daily spendings. And because most of our prior accomodation was booked by me, it was all 3-5 star. Whoops! But despite my reservations to re-enter the sporadic world of bunk beds and communal showers… being in a hostel actually felt good. And my wallet liked it to at only 150 baht/night ($6 AU).
The quaint (microscopic) hostel was run by an adorable Thai couple, the type you’d read about in a book. They were always grinning and welcoming us, bringing us local snacks, and so willing to go absaloutly above and beyond for us five Aussies. It felt like they were taking us in as their own. So their touch made sharing creeky bunkbeds and cold low pressured showers all the better.
We stayed mostly within the old town, and it’s well known ‘6 lanes’. Each tight lane filled with expressive culture and creativity. Nestled within one artistic corner was a reggae bar where we spent most of our first night. We sat upstairs on cushions drinking Chang and playing card games with the locals. It took me back to the Chai Tent in Woodford.
The next day we packed fruit and nibbles and ventured an hour and a half North, making ourselves at home at the Mok Fah waterfalls. I finally bought a travel diary so lying under the sunshine listening to the amplified sound of the water, I wrote. We waited excitedly for what tomorrow would bring- we were about to embark on our two day elephant riding, caring, and training camp. Everyone one of us grinning at the prospect…
Koh Samui
Koh Samui was the first let down of our trip. Don’t get me wrong, we had a good time- it just didn’t sparkle like the rest. It had a pretty standard beach (no snorkelling) rainy weather, and was as chaotic as Patong. The plus side was our luscious accomodation; big rooms, plenty pools, cliff side location… But there just wasn’t really any atmosphere.
We still made the most of our time there, we just didn’t leave feeling inspired… Well I didn’t. So that’s why I’ve kept this short and under-descriptive. Pooey Samui…
More from Koh Tao
Koh Tao- Wow!
So we did it. We managed to hit the full moon party (in extremely spontaneous conditions), and make the 6am journey to Koh Tao. We’d only ever heard beautiful things about this island, so our expectations exceeded all other destinations yet. After a sleepy journey, we pulled up at the port, jumped on the back of a taxi ute, and flung ourselves onto the hotel bed upon checkin. 11am. The day was still young.
After a short kip, we wandered through the small streets of Surathani. It was wonderful. The atmosphere was peaceful, with only a bit of tolerable hassling from taxi drivers above the port. The island, renowned for its diving and snorkelling attractions, had a diving school in every second shop. We compared companies, and considered a night dive, but to our dismay the water was too murky this time of month. So scooters it was! We paired up, hired three scooters, and began really devouring every corner of Koh Tao.
Eventually everyone caved and decided on an afternoon nap- but Molly and I knew better. We took a scooter and purposely got lost. Losing grids has to be one of my favourite things, and when your lucky enough to stumble upon an unspoilt treasure, that’s when you’ve hit jackpot. Freedom beach was just that. The hidden and artistic beach was a trek to find, and after almost stalling the scooter going up huge cliffs, we almost didn’t find it. It looked like an artisans dream, with low trees in the sand smaller than me, covered in dangling shells and dream catchers. Someone, or some people, had gone to a lot of effort to make this beach the dream that it was.
We snorkelled and explored the cove all afternoon, getting lost in its exotic underwater world. We headed home in time to wake everyone for the sunset, and sat on another nearby white sanded beach as the sun took over the island. After some drinks at what became our favourite beach hut bar/restaurant, we opted for an authentic street food Thai dinner. I spent 45 baht ($1.80) and came home with a plate of sticky rice, two chicken wings and a bottle of water. Yum. It was the best chicken I’d had yet.
The next day we enjoyed a sleep in, a hearty breakfast back at the beach hut (including my first coffee in weeks), and an afternoon spent chasing the sun. We found incredible snorkelling spots on the whitest of beaches, drank cocktails from a cliff point restaurant, and the braver of the lot jumped off a huge rock into the ocean. Koh Tao was layered in high range mountains, which proved to be fun trying to drive up with two people. We couldn’t get over them all, so we generally stayed on the westerly side. But what we did manage to see was nonetheless extravagant. To top off another magical day, we did yoga on the beach as it day drew to a close. After a big Panang chicken curry and night market wander, we hit the sack.
On our final day in Koh Tao, we continued our snorkelling adventures. We eventually found ourselves in a deserted beach with hammocks and swings lavished in the trees. It was pure bliss, and I wished we never had to leave. But the clock ticked on and we popped into our favourite beach hut one last time. Slowly we made our way to the port, no one wanted to leave the wanders we found in Koh Tao. Luckily though, we had Koh Samui to look forward to… And it had a tough act to follow!
Wandering Gypsy Feet 